On the wild east coast of São Vicente, half an hour from Mindelo, Calhau is a scatter of houses between two extinct volcanoes and the Atlantic. It is where Mindelo goes at the weekend — for the seafood, the wind and the sense of being at the edge of things.
The village and coast
Calhau is small: a few dozen houses, some weekend homes and a handful of restaurants facing a black-sand and pebble shore. Behind rise the cones of Monte Verde's neighbours, and the volcanic rock, dark sand and green-blue water give the whole coast a raw, elemental feel quite unlike the white beaches of the eastern islands.
Seafood and weekends
The village's reputation rests on its fish. Simple restaurants grill the day's catch — tuna, wahoo, moray, lobster — and on Sundays half of Mindelo seems to drive out for lunch. Book or arrive early at weekends. See food and drink for what to order.
The desert and Monte Verde
The drive to Calhau passes a small sandy desert — a miniature version of Boa Vista's dunes, formed from Sahara-blown sand — and gives access to Monte Verde, the island's highest point. Many visitors loop Calhau, Monte Verde and Baía das Gatas into one half-day tour.
Practical information
- About 30 minutes from Mindelo by taxi or aluguer.
- Windy — bring a layer even on hot days.
- Swimming can be rough on the open coast; take care.
- Weekends are lively; weekdays can be almost deserted.
Frequently asked questions
What is Calhau known for?
Its seafood restaurants and dramatic volcanic coastline. It is a popular weekend lunch destination for people from Mindelo.
Can you swim at Calhau?
With care. The coast is open to the Atlantic with rocky, dark-sand shores, so conditions can be rough — ask locally first.