Santo Antão is the second-largest island in Cape Verde and the one walkers come for: a block of volcanic mountains cut by deep green valleys, with old cobbled paths linking villages that roads never reached. There is no airport and no resort. You arrive by ferry from Mindelo, sleep in guesthouses and spend your days on foot. This guide covers getting there, where to base yourself, the hikes worth planning around and what the island is not good for.
Santo Antão at a glance
| Getting there | Ferry from Mindelo (São Vicente) to Porto Novo, about 1 hour |
|---|---|
| Airport | None in use; fly to São Vicente and take the ferry |
| Main towns | Porto Novo (ferry port), Ribeira Grande, Ponta do Sol, Vila das Pombas (Paul) |
| Best for | Hiking, valley scenery, village guesthouses, slow travel |
| Not for | Beach holidays, nightlife, resorts |
| Time needed | 4–7 days; 3 nights at the very least |
| Money | Bring cash; ATMs are limited and cards are rarely accepted |
| Highest point | Tope de Coroa, 1,979 m |
Why visit Santo Antão, and who should skip it
Santo Antão looks nothing like the Cape Verde of the holiday brochures. The south and west are dry, brown and almost lunar. Cross the mountains to the north and the island turns green: steep valleys planted with sugar cane, bananas, mango trees and coffee, terraces stacked hundreds of metres up the slopes, and villages clinging to ridges above the sea.
The walking is the reason to come. The paths are old mule tracks built to connect farming villages, so they are well made, often cobbled and walled, and they lead somewhere: to a hamlet, a viewpoint or a grogue still. You do not need to be an experienced hiker to enjoy them, but you do need decent shoes and reasonable legs.
Skip it if your idea of a good holiday involves a sunbed. There are no resorts, very few swimmable beaches and almost no nightlife. Logistics take patience too: everything runs on the ferry timetable and on aluguers that leave when they are full.
Where is Santo Antão and how do you get there?
Santo Antão is the westernmost of the northern (Barlavento) islands, across a narrow channel from São Vicente. The island's old airstrip has been closed for years, so almost everyone arrives on the ferry from Mindelo to Porto Novo. The crossing takes about an hour and runs several times a day, but the channel is often rough; if you are prone to seasickness, sit in the middle of the boat and watch the horizon.
To reach Mindelo, fly into São Vicente, either directly on one of its international routes or via Sal or Praia on a domestic flight. See our guides to São Vicente, ferries in Cape Verde and Cape Verde's airports.
From Porto Novo to the north
Porto Novo sits on the dry south side. The green valleys are on the other side of the mountains, and there are two ways across: the faster coast road, or the old cobbled mountain road that climbs past the Cova crater. Aluguers wait for every ferry. If you have a choice, take the mountain road at least once, in daylight.
Things to do on Santo Antão
Most days here revolve around a walk, a long lunch and an early night. These are the experiences worth planning around.
Book tours and guided hikes on Santo Antão
Prices, times and availability are shown on GetYourGuide. Many tours offer free cancellation.
Santo Antão day trip with lunch
- Ferry from Mindelo, then 4x4 or minibus
- Cova crater and the Paul Valley
- Short hike and a Cape Verdean lunch
Santo Antão full day: crater and valley
- Drive up to the Cova crater
- Hike down the Paul Valley, or take the old road
- Guided, with ferry from São Vicente
Guided hikes on Santo Antão
- Day hikes with local guides
- Two-day tours including the ferry
- Pick-up available
More tours: All Santo Antão tours ↗
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Hike from the Cova crater to the Paul Valley
The island's signature walk. Descend 3–4 hours from the crater rim to the sea at Vila das Pombas, or walk a 10.5 km loop from the upper valley up to the crater and back. Details, elevation profile and transport: Cova crater and Paul Valley route guide.
Walk the coastal path from Ponta do Sol to Fontainhas and Cruzinha
A cliff path along the north coast. The first 2.5 km to the viewpoint over Fontainhas takes about an hour; the full route continues 11.5 km to Cruzinha past abandoned stone houses and sheer drops to the sea. See the Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha route guide.
Take the easy Three Valleys loop from Coculi
An 11 km loop through sugar cane, banana plantations and thatched stone houses in the valley above Ribeira Grande, with no exposed sections. The best first walk on the island: Three Valleys route guide.
Drive the old mountain road
The cobbled road from Porto Novo over the spine of the island climbs through bare, dry slopes, passes the Cova crater and then drops into the green north. It is the most dramatic way to cross the island, and many visitors combine it with the Cova–Paul hike.
Visit a grogue distillery
Sugar cane grown in the valleys is pressed and distilled into grogue, Cape Verde's rum, often in small family trapiches. Several sit along the Paul Valley. See grogue and trapiche distilleries.
Spend an evening in Ponta do Sol
The small town at the northern tip has the island's best choice of guesthouses and restaurants, a seafront where the town gathers in the evening and the coastal path starting at the edge of town. More in our Ponta do Sol guide.
Compare every route, with distances and difficulty, in Santo Antão hiking routes.
Beaches and swimming on Santo Antão
Santo Antão is not a beach island. Most of the coast is cliff, boulder beach or small coves of black sand facing the open Atlantic, and the swell is heavy for much of the year. Swimming off the headland at Ponta do Sol is unsafe; locals use sheltered rock pools instead.
The main exception is Tarrafal de Monte Trigo on the remote west coast, a small village with a black-sand beach at the end of a long mountain road. It suits travellers who want to stop completely for a few days rather than a quick swim.
If sea swimming matters to you, plan it around São Vicente before or after the ferry: Laginha beach is in Mindelo itself. See the best beaches in Cape Verde and where it is safe to swim.
Weather and best time to visit
The mountains create sharp contrasts. The south and west are dry and sunny almost all year; the north-facing valleys catch the trade-wind cloud and are greener, cooler and more often misty. At the Cova crater, around 1,200 m, it can feel chilly and windy even when the coast is hot.
The most comfortable months for hiking are November to March, when it is cool and dry. April to June is still good but warmer. For the greenest valleys, come in October; August and September bring the most rain, with slippery paths and occasional road closures. Whatever the month, start walks early, as cloud often builds over the ridges by late morning.
More detail: best time to visit Cape Verde and Cape Verde in October.
Where to stay on Santo Antão
Moving around the island takes time, so your base shapes your trip. Ponta do Sol has the most restaurants and the widest choice of rooms and puts the coastal path on your doorstep. The Paul Valley suits walkers who want to wake up among the terraces, with simple family-run guesthouses and home-cooked dinners. Ribeira Grande is the practical hub with shops, ATMs and transport. Porto Novo only makes sense for an early ferry.
Many visitors split their stay: two or three nights in Ponta do Sol, then two in the Paul Valley. Full comparison: where to stay on Santo Antão.
How many days on Santo Antão, and a sample plan
Allow four to seven days. Three nights is the minimum that makes the ferry worthwhile; with fewer, you spend more time in minibuses than on foot. A five-day plan that covers the highlights:
- Day 1: morning ferry from Mindelo, cross the island on the old mountain road past the Cova crater, sleep in Ponta do Sol.
- Day 2: walk the coastal path to Fontainhas and Cruzinha, with transport arranged back.
- Day 3: easy day on the Three Valleys loop from Coculi, then move to the Paul Valley.
- Day 4: walk up to the Cova crater and back through the Paul Valley; grogue tasting on the way down.
- Day 5: aluguer to Porto Novo and the ferry back to Mindelo.
For combinations with other islands, see island hopping in Cape Verde and our two-week itinerary.
Getting around and practical tips
- Aluguers (shared minibuses) meet every ferry and run between the main towns; they leave when full. Taxis and private drivers are easy to arrange through guesthouses. See taxis and aluguers.
- Most classic walks are one-way. Arrange the pick-up before you set off; in remote places there may be no transport later in the day.
- Bring enough cash from São Vicente. ATMs are few and sometimes empty, and many guesthouses and shops do not take cards.
- Connectivity is patchy in the valleys, and mountain villages have occasional power cuts. Download maps offline and carry a power bank. See SIM cards and internet.
- Pack for two climates: sun protection for the coast and a warm layer and rain jacket for the ridges. Our packing list covers the rest.
Heading out on foot? Read our Santo Antão hiking tips first.
Frequently asked questions
Is Santo Antão worth visiting?
Yes, if you like walking, mountain scenery and simple guesthouses. It is the best island in Cape Verde for hiking. It is not worth it if you want a beach holiday, nightlife or a resort: there are none.
How do you get to Santo Antão?
By ferry from Mindelo on São Vicente to Porto Novo. The crossing takes about an hour and runs several times a day. Santo Antão has no airport in use, so you fly to São Vicente first.
Does Santo Antão have beaches?
Very few you would travel for. The coast is mostly cliffs and boulder coves with heavy Atlantic swell, and swimming is often unsafe. Tarrafal de Monte Trigo on the remote west coast has a black-sand beach. For beach days, São Vicente, Sal and Boa Vista are better.
How many days do you need on Santo Antão?
Four to seven days. With three full days on the island you can walk the three classic routes: Cova crater and the Paul Valley, Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha, and the Three Valleys loop from Coculi. Add a day at each end for the ferry.
Can you visit Santo Antão as a day trip from Mindelo?
You can, with the first ferry out and the last one back, and a driver waiting in Porto Novo. You will see the Cova crater and the Paul Valley from the road, but there is little time to walk. Two or three nights is far more rewarding.
Do you need a car on Santo Antão?
No. Aluguers (shared minibuses) meet every ferry and link the main towns, and taxis or private drivers cover the rest. Many walks are one-way, so a driver who drops you at the start and collects you at the end is often more useful than a hire car.