The Cova crater and the Paul Valley are the landscapes most people picture when they think of Santo Antão: a flat volcanic crater floor divided into small walled fields, and below it one of the greenest valleys in Cape Verde, planted with sugar cane, bananas and mango trees. This guide covers both ways to walk them — the classic descent and a loop from the valley — with an elevation profile, photos from the trail and practical tips.
Cova–Paul hike at a glance
| Classic descent | Cova crater rim to Vila das Pombas, one way, mostly downhill, about 3–4 hours |
|---|---|
| Loop from the valley | Upper Paul Valley (about 550 m) to the crater and back, about 10.5 km |
| Surface | Mostly cobbled paths, some dirt and short road sections |
| Difficulty | Moderate; steep but not exposed |
| Transport | Descent: drop-off at the rim and pick-up at the bottom. Loop: none needed if you stay in the valley |
| Navigation | komoot route for the loop |
Descent or loop: which version to choose
Choose the classic descent if you are staying in Ponta do Sol, Ribeira Grande or Porto Novo and can arrange an aluguer. You start high, the valley unfolds below you, and you finish at the sea in Vila das Pombas. The catch is 3–4 hours of almost continuous downhill on cobbles.
Choose the loop if you are sleeping in the Paul Valley, prefer climbing to descending, or want to avoid organising a pick-up. You do the hard work early, see the crater from several angles, and walk back down to where you started.
The loop, step by step
Up through the upper valley
The loop starts among the houses and small farms of the upper Paul Valley at about 550 m. The first kilometre climbs gently past banana plants, sugar cane and terraces, with the village spread out below you and the jagged ridges of the valley head ahead.
The zigzags to the rim
After about 2 km the path steepens into a long series of stone-walled zigzags. This is the hard part of the day: roughly 400 m of climbing in 1.5 km. Cloud often sits on the ridge, so the view can change from full sunshine to mist within minutes. Take it slowly — the walls are good places to stop and look back.
The Cova crater
At around 3.5 km you reach the viewpoints over the Paul Valley and then the Cova crater itself: an almost circular volcanic bowl with a flat floor of small walled fields, ringed by pine-covered slopes. The loop continues around the crater area to its high point of about 1,270 m. On a clear day it is green and bright; when the trade-wind cloud rolls over the rim, the fields disappear within minutes.
Back down to the valley
From the high point the route turns back and descends steadily for about 5 km to the start. Part of the descent follows a different line from the ascent, so you see the valley from new angles. It is long rather than steep, but on cobbles your knees will still notice it.
Elevation profile
The profile is based on komoot's planned route and a digital elevation model, so treat heights as approximate.
The classic one-way descent from the rim
The best-known version starts at the rim of the Cova crater, on the mountain road between Porto Novo and the north coast. From the rim a cobbled path drops over the edge and descends through the Paul Valley, past hamlets, irrigation channels and terraces, to the sea at Vila das Pombas. Allow about 3–4 hours; it is almost all downhill.
Have an aluguer drop you at the rim and meet you in Vila das Pombas, or pick one up on the valley road at the bottom. Walking poles make a real difference on the long descent. Small grogue distilleries and cafés along the lower valley make good stops.
Getting there and back
- For the descent: arrange an aluguer or taxi to the Cova crater rim, and a pick-up in Vila das Pombas. Guesthouses can often help organise this the day before.
- For the loop: start from the upper Paul Valley. Aluguers run the valley road between Vila das Pombas and the upper valley.
- From the ferry: the mountain road from Porto Novo passes the crater, so some visitors walk the descent on their way to the north coast. See Porto Novo for the crossing from Mindelo.
Weather, kit and safety
- The crater sits at about 1,200 m and is often cool, windy and in cloud even when the valley is hot: bring a warm layer and a light rain jacket.
- Start early. Cloud tends to build over the ridges by late morning.
- Carry at least 2 litres of water; the zigzag section has little shade.
- Wear shoes with good grip for the cobbles, and consider poles for the descent.
- The most comfortable hiking months are November to March, when it is cool and dry; October is the greenest month, and August and September bring the most rain. See best time to visit.
- Carry cash for drinks and snacks in the valley; small shops rarely take cards.
More advice on transport, navigation and safety: Santo Antão hiking tips.
Frequently asked questions
How long is the Cova crater to Paul Valley hike?
The classic one-way descent from the Cova crater rim to Vila das Pombas takes about 3–4 hours. The loop from the upper Paul Valley up to the crater and back is about 10.5 km with around 860 m of ascent; komoot estimates roughly 4.5 hours of walking, excluding breaks.
Is the Cova to Paul hike difficult?
It is moderate rather than technical. The one-way descent is long and steep on cobbles, which is hard on knees; the loop has one sustained climb of about 400 m in 1.5 km on stone-walled zigzags. There is no real exposure on either version.
Should you walk up or down the Paul Valley?
Down is the classic choice because transport can drop you at the crater rim and the views open up in front of you. Walking up (the loop) suits people staying in the valley, avoids needing a pick-up, and is easier on the knees.
Do you need a guide for the Cova to Paul hike?
Most walkers do it without a guide: the main cobbled path is clear and well used. A guide is useful if you want to link side paths or learn about the farms and villages along the way.
What is the best time of day to hike Cova to Paul?
Start early. Cloud often builds over the crater by late morning, and the crater rim at about 1,200 m is cool and windy even on hot days.