Most visitors to Sal see Espargos only through a transfer-bus window, which is a pity. This is where the island actually lives: a scruffy, friendly working town in the dead centre of Sal, with markets, barber shops, bakeries and restaurants at a third of Santa Maria's prices.
What Espargos is
Espargos is the administrative capital of Sal and home to most of the island's population — a grid of low buildings around a central square, built up after the airport arrived. It is not pretty in the postcard sense, but it is genuine, and a couple of hours here gives you a far better sense of Cape Verdean life than a week in a resort. It sits about 15 minutes north of Santa Maria.
What to do
Walk up to the hilltop viewpoint by the communication masts for a view over the whole flat island, from the salt pans to both coasts. Browse the municipal market for fruit, fish and household chaos. Eat lunch at a local restaurant — grilled fish, cachupa and a beer will cost a fraction of the resort rate. The square is the place to sit and watch the town go by.
Practical information
Espargos has the island's banks, pharmacies, the main hospital and the biggest supermarkets, so it is the place to come for anything you cannot find in Santa Maria. Aluguers run constantly between Espargos and Santa Maria for a couple of euros; taxis cost around €10–15. Amílcar Cabral International Airport is on the edge of town — see airport transfers.
- Bring cash in escudos — cards are rarely accepted here.
- Go in the morning for the market at its liveliest.
- Combine it with a trip to Pedra de Lume or Palmeira.
- Dress a little more modestly than on the beach.
Frequently asked questions
Is Espargos worth visiting?
Yes, for a couple of hours. It is Sal's real working town, with markets, local restaurants at low prices and a hilltop viewpoint over the whole island.
How far is Espargos from Santa Maria?
About 15 minutes by road. Aluguers run frequently for a couple of euros; a taxi costs roughly €10–15.