At Pedra de Lume you float in salt pans inside the crater of an extinct volcano on Sal's north-east coast. The water is so dense that you cannot sink, the crater walls glow ochre and white around you, and the rusting cable-car towers above the pans are a reminder that this was once the island's economic engine.
Pedra de Lume at a glance
Why the salt crater exists
Sal is named after salt, and this crater is the reason. Pedra de Lume is the flooded crater of an extinct volcano whose floor lies below sea level. Seawater seeps through the porous rock, evaporates under the relentless sun and leaves behind salt concentrated enough to mine. It was worked commercially from 1804 into the twentieth century, when tens of thousands of tonnes a year were shipped to West Africa and Brazil.
A cable car once carried buckets of salt over the crater rim to the pier. Its wooden masts still stand, half-collapsed, above the pans. The industry faded when cheaper salt and refrigeration took over, and the crater now earns its living from visitors floating in the brine.
Floating in the salt pans: how it works
You walk down into the crater, pay at the gate and change beside the pans. The bathing pan is shallow and warm, with a bottom of crusted salt that can be sharp underfoot, so keep water shoes on if you have sensitive feet.
Lie back slowly and let your legs come up: the water pushes you to the surface and you bob like a cork. Swimming is impossible, and turning face-down is a bad idea. Ten to fifteen minutes is plenty, after which the salt starts to dry on your skin and itch.
- Do not shave that morning. The salt finds every cut.
- Keep it out of your eyes. Rinsing water is not always to hand in the pans themselves.
- Shower afterwards at the site; the salt crust is uncomfortable in the car.
- Leave jewellery and anything that corrodes in your bag.
Visiting: hours, price and getting there
- Hours: daily, roughly 09:00 to 18:00.
- Entry: about €5 per person in cash; some tours include it.
- Getting there: around 20 minutes from Santa Maria and a few minutes from Espargos, by taxi, hire car, quad or organised tour. See car rental and taxis and aluguers.
- Best timing: go early for space, or at midday for the strongest colours in the crater.
- Accessibility: the walk in is on uneven ground with a slope and steps. See accessible travel in Cape Verde.
Tours that include Pedra de Lume
Prices, times and availability are shown on GetYourGuide. Many tours offer free cancellation.
Sal island tour with a local guide
- About 6 hours, hotel pick-up
- Buracona Blue Eye, Pedra de Lume salt crater, Palmeira
- Private option available
Quad and buggy tours on Sal
- Off-road to the wild side of the island
- Small groups with a local guide
- Pick-up in Santa Maria
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What to combine it with
Pedra de Lume sits on the opposite coast from the Blue Eye at Buracona, and the classic island tour links the two, usually with a stop in the port village of Palmeira for lunch. Add Shark Bay if you want to wade with lemon sharks, and you have a full day that covers most of what Sal has beyond the beach.
More ideas: things to do on Sal.
Frequently asked questions
How much does Pedra de Lume cost?
Entry is around €5 per person, paid in cash at the gate. Prices can change, and some island tours include the fee.
What are the Pedra de Lume opening hours?
Daily from about 09:00 to 18:00. Mornings are quieter; the light in the crater is best in the middle of the day.
Can you really float in the salt pans on Sal?
Yes. The water is many times saltier than the sea, so you float without effort, lying back as you would in the Dead Sea. You cannot really swim in it.
How long do you need at Pedra de Lume?
About an hour, including the float and a shower. With a walk around the crater rim and a drink, allow an hour and a half.
Does the salt water sting?
It stings any cut or graze, and it burns badly if it gets in your eyes. Do not shave that morning, keep your face out of the water and rinse off afterwards.
How do you get to Pedra de Lume?
It is on the north-east coast, a short drive from Espargos and about 20 minutes from Santa Maria by taxi or hire car. Almost every island tour stops here.