In the remote south of Boa Vista lie the ruins of Curral Velho, a village abandoned decades ago as drought and hardship drove its people away. Sun-bleached stone walls stand roofless against the dunes, and offshore sits an islet that is one of the archipelago's most important seabird sites.
The abandoned village
Curral Velho was slowly emptied through the twentieth century, its residents leaving for Sal Rei or overseas as water grew scarcer. What remains is a scatter of stone houses, walls and enclosures being reclaimed by sand — quiet, strange and genuinely moving, especially in the low light of late afternoon. It is one of the clearest reminders on the island of the drought and emigration that shaped Cape Verde.
Ilhéu de Curral Velho and birdlife
Just offshore lies a small islet that hosts breeding seabirds, including magnificent frigatebirds — a rare and precious colony in this part of the Atlantic. The surrounding coast and wetland areas attract waders and migrants, making this one of the island's best spots for birdwatching. The islet is protected; view it from shore or by boat rather than landing.
The beach and coast
The coastline here is wild and empty, with dunes running into the sea and no facilities of any kind. It is a nesting area for loggerhead turtles in summer, which is another reason to tread carefully and never drive on the sand.
Visiting
- Reachable only by 4x4 on rough tracks — go with a guide or tour.
- Bring all your own water, food and sun protection.
- No shade, no facilities, no phone signal in places.
- Do not disturb ruins, nests or birds; take everything out with you.
Frequently asked questions
What is Curral Velho?
An abandoned village in the remote south of Boa Vista, deserted as drought drove residents away, with an important seabird islet offshore.
How do you get to Curral Velho?
Only by 4x4 on rough tracks, usually as part of a guided island tour. There are no facilities, so bring your own water and supplies.